Pallet Chaise Lounger

I love the combination of comfy indoor living spaces, but with the beauty of being outside. We just refinished our deck (another post for another day) and I wanted a place we could kickback and enjoy the summer. I also did not want to clean out our piggy bank (outdoor furniture is pricey!). So we went in search of pallets (yay free!) and I made the cushions to go with it. 

Made from some reused material

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​Materials

• 7 pallets (these were 5”x48”x40”)
• Wood screws
• Outdoor material of various colours and patterns
• Foam (I used two 4”x24”x72” foam rolls – one was cut down)
• 1 Zipper (30” or longer)
• 7 Pillow forms of various sizes (I used five 20”x20” and four 18”x18”)
• Thread
• Fabric waterproofing spay (optional, but a good way to enhance longevity)

 
Tools

• Electric drill
• Electric sander
• Sewing machine

How to Guide
 
Pallet Chaise
 
Sands of time

• Sand off rough edges and boards (40-60 grade should do).

Assemble

• No 2 pallets are made alike. Play with how they will be assembled to get the best fit.

Cut it up

• Mark and cut the base pallets down so when put together they are 72” long and 40” wide. You can also leave this as is, cut shorter, or add more!
• Mark and cut the seat backs to 72” long and 35” high (based on above).
• Mark and cut the seat side back to 45” long and 35” high (based on above).

Reassemble

• Put the pallets back together to check the fit. 
• If you cut down the length of the base I suggest layering the longer and shorter pieces (like bricks) for more stability.

Screw it
I suggest placing your lounger before screwing together - it is very heavy once in one piece.

• Screw together the base pallets so that it is two pallets high.
• Screw the backs together.
• Screw the backs to the base.
• Screw the side to the base and back.

.Stain or paint, or don’t
I left mine unpainted for a more rustic look, but paint or stain would be fun too

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​Seat Cushion
 
Up top measure and cut

• Take your pallet base measurements along with your foam (i.e. 4”x40”x72”)
• The top piece will need to account for the height of your foam.
• For the width, add 2x the height of your foam (40” + (4” x 2) = 48”) plus an addition 2 inches for seam allowance (48” + 2” = 50”).
• For the length, add 2x the height of your foam (72” + (4” x 2) = 80”) plus an addition 2 inches for seam allowance (80” + 2” = 82”).
• Cut 1 rectangle using these measurements for top piece (50”x82”). 

Bottom measure and cut

• Take your pallet base measurements (i.e. 40”x72”) and add 2 inches.
• Cut 1 rectangle with these measurements for the bottom (i.e. 42”x74”).

 
Up top

• Layout your top piece on a hard smooth surface right side down.
• On each corner measure and mark a 5”x5” square (based on 4” foam + 1” for seam allowance).
• Take the measurement between each of the corners tips of your drawn squares; this should equal your base measurements (40”x72”).

moving Guidelines

• Starting from the corner tips moving towards the edge, measure and mark at 4" - this should be about 1" from your edge.
• Repeat for all 4 corners. 
• Using these marks, draw a sewing guideline along the length and widths of your piece.

Corner to corner

• Starting with one corner, fold your marked lines with the fabric right sides together and pin.
• Repeat for all 4 corners. 

Sewn corners

• Sew along your marked line.
• Repeat for all 4 corners.
• Cut or serge off the access fabric.
• You should now have somewhat of a “3D” rectangle.

Back to front

• Layout your back piece on a hard smooth surface right side up.

• Lay your top piece right side down and line up the edges.
  
• Pin and sew 3 of the 4 edges together, both width and along 1 of the lengths.

Zip it

• With the zipper closed line it up in the centre of your open edge and mark the top and base with a pin.
• From pin to corner, sew the edges closed on each side.
• Fold and press out the edges along the seam and opening. 

Zip it good

• Starting with one side (top or bottom it doesn’t matter) lay the closed zipper right side down along the length of the opening and pin in place.
• From top to base, stitch as close to the teeth as possible along the salvage edge. Backstitch both ends to ensure durability.
• Repeat for other size of zipper.

Foam fun

• If needed, measure and cut your foam down to fit your cushion (i.e. 40”x72”).
• I used two 4” x 24” x 72” foam rolls and cut one down to 16” x 72” to get the right fit.

 
I ordered the foam online at Outdoor Fabrics Canada.
 
Stuff it

• Open your zipper and turn your cushion right side out.
• Stuff your cushion with your foam via the zipper.
• Zip closed. 

For added weather protection I suggest using fabric Waterproofing Spray. I used Woods™ Waterproof Silicone Spray. Apply as directed.

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Pillows

Measure and cut

• Take your pillow form measurements and add 2 inches.
• Cut 1 square with these measurements for the front (i.e. if your pillow is 18"x18” cut a 20”x20" square)
• Take your measurements above (20”x20”) divide one side by 2 (10”x20”) and then add back about 6” (16”x20”).
• Cut 2 of this size for the overlapping back.

Backside

• Layout your back pieces on a hard smooth surface right side down.
• Fold a 1.5” hem along one side of the 20” length (your 16”x20” becomes 14.5”x20”).
• Sew hem closed.
• Repeat for both back pieces.

Come Together

• Layout your front piece on a hard smooth surface right side up.
• Lay one back piece on top right side down.
• Line up the bottom and side edges to your front piece.
• The hemmed edge of the back piece should be a few inches from the edge of the front edge.
• Repeat on opposite end for second back piece.

Sew it up

• Pin together and sew along all 4 edges.

​Flip it

• Fold over the back pieces so that the pillowcase is right side out.

Formation

• Stuff it with your pillow forms! 

I ordered the pillow forms online at Pillow Forms Canada.

Repeat, repeat, repeat! 
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