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Pallet Chaise Lounger

6/12/2016

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I love the combination of comfy indoor living spaces, but with the beauty of being outside. We just refinished our deck (another post for another day) and I wanted a place we could kickback and enjoy the summer. I also did not want to clean out our piggy bank (outdoor furniture is pricey!). So we went in search of pallets (yay free!) and I made the cushions to go with it. 
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Made from some reused material

​Materials
  • 7 pallets (these were 5”x48”x40”)
  • Wood screws
  • Outdoor material of various colours and patterns
  • Foam (I used two 4”x24”x72” foam rolls – one was cut down)
  • 1 Zipper (30” or longer)
  • 7 Pillow forms of various sizes (I used five 20”x20” and four 18”x18”)
  • Thread
  • Fabric waterproofing spay (optional, but a good way to enhance longevity)
 
Tools
  • Electric drill
  • Electric sander
  • Sewing machine

How to Guide
 
Pallet Chaise
 
Sands of time
  • Sand off rough edges and boards (40-60 grade should do).

Assemble
  • No 2 pallets are made alike. Play with how they will be assembled to get the best fit.
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Cut it up
  • Mark and cut the base pallets down so when put together they are 72” long and 40” wide. You can also leave this as is, cut shorter, or add more!
  • Mark and cut the seat backs to 72” long and 35” high (based on above).
  • Mark and cut the seat side back to 45” long and 35” high (based on above).
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Reassemble
  • Put the pallets back together to check the fit. 
  • If you cut down the length of the base I suggest layering the longer and shorter pieces (like bricks) for more stability.
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Screw it
I suggest placing your lounger before screwing together - it is very heavy once in one piece.
  • Screw together the base pallets so that it is two pallets high.
  • Screw the backs together.
  • Screw the backs to the base.
  • Screw the side to the base and back.
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.Stain or paint, or don’t
I left mine unpainted for a more rustic look, but paint or stain would be fun too


​Seat Cushion
 
Up top measure and cut
  • Take your pallet base measurements along with your foam (i.e. 4”x40”x72”)
  • The top piece will need to account for the height of your foam.
  • For the width, add 2x the height of your foam (40” + (4” x 2) = 48”) plus an addition 2 inches for seam allowance (48” + 2” = 50”).
  • For the length, add 2x the height of your foam (72” + (4” x 2) = 80”) plus an addition 2 inches for seam allowance (80” + 2” = 82”).
  • Cut 1 rectangle using these measurements for top piece (50”x82”). 
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Bottom measure and cut
  • Take your pallet base measurements (i.e. 40”x72”) and add 2 inches.
  • Cut 1 rectangle with these measurements for the bottom (i.e. 42”x74”).
 
Up top
  • Layout your top piece on a hard smooth surface right side down.
  • On each corner measure and mark a 5”x5” square (based on 4” foam + 1” for seam allowance).
  • Take the measurement between each of the corners tips of your drawn squares; this should equal your base measurements (40”x72”).
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moving Guidelines
  • Starting from the corner tips moving towards the edge, measure and mark at 4" - this should be about 1" from your edge.
  • Repeat for all 4 corners. 
  • Using these marks, draw a sewing guideline along the length and widths of your piece.
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Corner to corner
  • Starting with one corner, fold your marked lines with the fabric right sides together and pin.
  • Repeat for all 4 corners. 
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Sewn corners
  • Sew along your marked line.
  • Repeat for all 4 corners.
  • Cut or serge off the access fabric.
  • You should now have somewhat of a “3D” rectangle.
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Back to front
  • Layout your back piece on a hard smooth surface right side up.
  • Lay your top piece right side down and line up the edges.
  • Pin and sew 3 of the 4 edges together, both width and along 1 of the lengths.
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Zip it
  • With the zipper closed line it up in the centre of your open edge and mark the top and base with a pin.
  • From pin to corner, sew the edges closed on each side.
  • Fold and press out the edges along the seam and opening. 
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Zip it good
  • Starting with one side (top or bottom it doesn’t matter) lay the closed zipper right side down along the length of the opening and pin in place.
  • From top to base, stitch as close to the teeth as possible along the salvage edge. Backstitch both ends to ensure durability.
  • Repeat for other size of zipper.
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Foam fun
  • If needed, measure and cut your foam down to fit your cushion (i.e. 40”x72”).
  • I used two 4” x 24” x 72” foam rolls and cut one down to 16” x 72” to get the right fit.
 
I ordered the foam online at Outdoor Fabrics Canada.
 
Stuff it
  • Open your zipper and turn your cushion right side out.
  • Stuff your cushion with your foam via the zipper.
  • Zip closed. 
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For added weather protection I suggest using fabric Waterproofing Spray. I used Woods™ Waterproof Silicone Spray. Apply as directed.

Pillows

Measure and cut
  • Take your pillow form measurements and add 2 inches.
  • Cut 1 square with these measurements for the front (i.e. if your pillow is 18"x18” cut a 20”x20" square)
  • Take your measurements above (20”x20”) divide one side by 2 (10”x20”) and then add back about 6” (16”x20”).
  • Cut 2 of this size for the overlapping back.
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Backside
  • Layout your back pieces on a hard smooth surface right side down.
  • Fold a 1.5” hem along one side of the 20” length (your 16”x20” becomes 14.5”x20”).
  • Sew hem closed.
  • Repeat for both back pieces.
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Come Together
  • Layout your front piece on a hard smooth surface right side up.
  • Lay one back piece on top right side down.
  • Line up the bottom and side edges to your front piece.
  • The hemmed edge of the back piece should be a few inches from the edge of the front edge.
  • Repeat on opposite end for second back piece.
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Sew it up
  • Pin together and sew along all 4 edges.
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​Flip it
  • Fold over the back pieces so that the pillowcase is right side out.
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Formation
  • Stuff it with your pillow forms! 

I ordered the pillow forms online at Pillow Forms Canada.

Repeat, repeat, repeat! 
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