Pretty in Pink Skirt with Pockets

The great thing about this skirt is that it can be done in stretch or non stretch fabric, made short, midi or maxi length and you can add your own details and personal style to it. I opted for girly - light pink with 2 gold buttons in the back.

Skill Level: Intermediate sewer. 

​Made with 100% certified organic cotton ​​

---

Notions: 

• Medium to light weight fabric – I used fabric with 30% stretch, but with the button closure you can use a non-stretch fabric as well 
  
• Thread 
  
• Medium snap buttons 
  
• Small snap buttons 
  
• Decorative buttons (optional) 

How to Guide:  

Get out a pad of paper to keep track of your measurements! 

• Waist: Measure your natural waist.
• Length: Measure the length between your waist to above your knee (or to whatever length you desire) 
• Adjusted Waist: multiply your waist measurement by 2 and add 3 inches 
• Adjusted Back Length: Add 2 inches to your length measurements (to make room for the hems) 

Cut it out 

• Lay out your fabric on a hard smooth surface, wrong side up. 
  

• Measure and cut a rectangle using your adjusted waist by adjusted length. 
  
• Find the centre of your rectangle and mark with chalk near the upper edge.  

Make it 3 

• Fold each side to the middle so that the edges are in line with the centre mark. 
  
• Mark the length of the fold line on each side. 
  
• Cut down the fold line.  
  
• You should now have 3 pieces - 1 large and 2 that are half the size of the large. 

Pin in place 

• With the large piece facing right side up, place your 2 smaller pieces face down on top, lining up the outer edges (where you just cut).
• Starting on one side, pin the top edge, and then measure about 4 inches down and place another pin.  
  
• From the lower pin, leave a gap for the pocket and pin the remainder of the edge closed.  
  
• Repeat on other side.  
  

Pocket Template 

• Print out the pocket template - make adjustments to the size by placing your hand over the template with your wrist resting along the dotted line and tracing the new outline. 
  

Left pocket 

• Cut out your adjusted pocket template.  
  
• Lay out your access fabric on a hard smooth surface and fold right sides together.  
  
• Place the pocket template on your fabric with the straight edge in line with the salvage edge. Pin in place.   
  
• Cut out your first pocket. 
  

Right pocket 

• Flip your template over to the reverse side and place it on the straight edge in line with the salvage edge. Pin in place. 
  
• Cut out your second pocket. 
  
• You should have 2 sets of opposite pieces. Pin each pocket together, but leave the straight edge unpinned. 
  

Waist no space 
I like a 2 inch thick waist band, but you can go wider or thinner. 

• Waistband width: using your desired waistband thickness (say 2 inches) double this (4 inches) and add 1 inch for the seam (total of 5 inches). 
  
• Waistband length: your waist measurement + 4 inches. 
  
• Lay out your fabric on a hard smooth surface, wrong side up. 
  
• Measure and cut a rectangle using your waistband width by waistband length. 
  
• Fold the length of the rectangle in half, right side out, and press! 
  
• You can add interfacing to the waistband if the lining is thin or flimsy. 
  

Get out your sewing machine! 

Setting up the sidelines 

• Grab your pockets.  
  
• Leaving a ½ space between the straight edge of your pocket and where your stitch line begins, sew along the edge of your pocket. Repeat for other pocket.  
  
• Grab the 3 pieces for your skirt. 
  
• Starting with one side, hold your pockets up to the opening in your skirt and adjust the pins to above and below the straight edge to mark where your pocket will sit. 
  
• Repeat on other side.  
  
• Sew the seam closed above and below the pins.  
  
• Your 3 pieces should now be one again, but with an opening in each of the seams.  
  

Placing your pockets 

• Lay your skirt flat with the wrong side up.  
  
• Starting with one of your pockets, curl open one side of the straight edge of the pocket and place it along the opening of your skirt so that the right sides are facing.  
  
• Now curl open the other side of the straight edge of the same pocket and place it along the other side of the opening of your skirt so that the right sides are facing.  
  
• The opening of your pocket and the opening of your skirt should be in line.  
  
• Repeat for second pocket.  
  

Pockets, pockets, pockets 

• Starting with one of your pockets, sew along each side of the pocket. Try to get as close to the side seam as possible so that they are no gaps between the pocket and side seam.  
  
• Repeat for second pocket.  
  
• Turn your skirt right side facing, when you look inside the pockets the right side should be face up. 
  
• Finish the pockets and sides with a zig-zag or serge stitch. 
  

Come together 

• Using your ruffle foot, gather foot or the “old school” way, via baste stich and hand, gather along the top edge of your skirt. 
  
• Once gathered it should be about 1 inch wider than your waist measurement. 
  
• Make sure your ruffle edge is secure and will not come undone. 
  

Waistband 

• Lay your unfolded waistband out on a hard smooth surface right side up. 
  
• Fold the length of the rectangle in half, wrong side out, and pin the ends together. 
  
• On one side of the waistband, sew the end closed.  
  
• On the other end of the waistband, sew the end closed and about 3 inches towards the centre along the length. 
  
• Flip both ends of the waist band out so that the right side is now facing outwards. 

Putting the pieces together 

• Lay your skirt out on a hard smooth surface right side up.  
  
• At the top end of your skirt where it is gathered, starting with the side of your waistband with only the end closed, pin right sides together along the edge of the waistline. 
  
• One side of you waistband should hang about 3 inches off the edge. 
  

• Baste the waistband to the skirt. Seam should run 1 inch from the edge, directly over the gather stitch. 

Check point – try it on! 

• Wrap your skirt around your waist, there should be room to close the back seam. 
  
• Make adjustments if needed. 
  
• Finish the edge of the inner waistband with a zig-zag or serge stitch. 
  

Closing time 

• Fold your skirt right sides together and line up the back seam. 
  
• Pin the back seam together leaving 4-6 inches open at the top. 
  
• Sew the back seam closed, leaving the unpinned 4-6 inches open at the top. 
  
• Press the back seam open along the stitch line so that the sides of the 4-6 inch opening follow the stitch line. 
  

Waistline 

• Fold your waistband over along the press line.  
  
• Fold under the salvage edges of your waistband and pin. As you pin your waistband closed, tuck in the salvages edges of your inner waistline. 
  

• Sew the inside of your waistband closed. I personally like to finish the waistband by hand so that it has a “seamless” finish. 

Your skirt should now look near complete, with the one end of the waistband laying on top of the other end.

Oh snap! 

• Where your waistband lays with one side over the other, sew on your medium snap button(s).  
  
• Along the seam line down the back (where you left the 4-6 inch opening) sew on your small snap buttons.  
  

Finishing touches 

• Try on your skirt and mark or pin where you want the hem length.  
  
• Fold and pin along the edge using your hem marker, and press 
  
• Open the hem line and fold the salvage edge into the hem line. You may need to trim a little off the end to get a clean, ½ inch hem. Pin closed and press.  
  
• Sew your hem closed.  
  
• Add your decorative buttons.
  

Pair this skirt with a flowy or fitted top, flats or heals and go for a stroll in the park or window shopping.