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Urban Skirt

3/26/2016

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This skirt is uber comfy and highly versatile. Easy to pull on and dress up or down. While anyone can make and wear this skirt, I specifically designed it to be high-waisted so that when I pull my top up to nurse my baby, I don’t have to expose my midsection. Hurray for function and style!
 
Skill Level: beginner to Intermediate sewer. 
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​Made from sustainable bamboo fabric

Notions:
  • Medium to light weight stretch fabric – I used fabric with 40% four-way stretch
  • Thread
 
How to Guide:
 
Get out a pad of paper to keep track of your measurements!
  • Waist: measure your natural waist.
  • Adjusted Waist: your waist measurement plus 1 inch.
  • Hip: measure your hips.
  • Adjusted Hip: your hip measurement plus 1 inch.
  • Waist to Hip: length between your waist and hip.
  • Waist to Mid calf: Measure the length between your waist your mid-calf (or to whatever length you desire).
  • Break up your waist to mid calf measurement by the following:
    • Waist to Mid-thigh Length: Measure the length between your waist to your mid-thigh
    • Mid-thigh to Mid-calf: Measure the length between your mid-thigh your mid-calf (or to whatever length you desire).
  • Front Length: multiply your waist to mid-thigh measurement by 1.5 (this is for the ruching), add your mid-thigh to mid-calf length plus another 2 inches
  • Back Length: Measure the length between the back of your waist to mid-calf (or to whatever length you desire) and add another 2 inches.
 
Cut it out
  • Lay out your fabric on a hard smooth surface.
  • Measure and cut a rectangle using your adjusted hip for the width, front length for the length.
  • Measure and cut a second rectangle, adjusted hip for the width, and your back length for the length.
  • Fold both rectangles in half lengthwise, with right sides together.
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Shape up
  • Keeping your rectangles in half lengthwise, from the top of the folded edge, measure and mark along the width ½ your adjusted waist. Do this for both rectangles.
  • Starting with your longer rectangle (front), from the top of the salvage edge, measure and mark along the length 1.5 times your waist to hip measurement.
  • For your shorter rectangle (back), from the top of the salvage edge, measure and mark along the length your waist to hip measurement.
  • On each rectangle draw a diagonal line between these two points.
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Rectangles to angles
  • Cut along your diagonal lines.
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Waist no space
For this skirt I added a 4 inch thick waist band, but you can go wider or thinner.
  • Waistband width: using your desired waistband thickness (say 4 inches) double this (8 inches) and add 1 inch for the seam (total of 9 inches).
  • Waistband length: your adjusted waist measurement.
  • Lay out your fabric on a hard smooth surface, wrong side up.
  • Measure and cut a rectangle using your waistband width by waistband length.
  • Fold the length of the rectangle in half, right side out, and press!
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Ruche it up
  • Lay out the longer piece of fabric (the front side) right side down.
  • Starting at the top of your piece (AKA the smaller end), along both side lengths, mark the length that equals 1.5 times your waist to mid-calf measurement. 
  • Using your ruffle foot, gather foot or the “old school” way, via baste stich and hand, gather along this measurement on both sides.
  • Once gathered your piece should be about the same length as your back length measurement.
  • Make sure your ruffle edge is secure and will not come undone.
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Sidelines
  • On a hard smooth surface, lay out the non-ruched piece of fabric (the back side) right side up.
  • Lay the ruched piece on top facing right side down, the two pieces should be right sides faced together.
  • Pin along each side and sew the skirt closed.
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Check point – try it on!
  • The skirt should slip over your hips and fit snugly around your waist, with room at the bottom for the hem. 
  • Make adjustments if needed.
 
Waistband
  • Lay your unfolded waistband out on a hard smooth surface right side up.
  • Fold the width of the rectangle in half, wrong side out, and pin the end.
  • Sew the end shut.
  • Fold the waistband back along the press side so that the right side faces out.
  • Try the waistband on to make sure it is the right size.
  • Make adjustments as needed. 
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Come together
  • Lay your skirt out on a hard smooth surface right side out.
  • With the salvage edge of your waistband facing the same way as the top of your skirt, slide the waistband over the top (right sides together).
  • Line the seam of your waistband up with one of your side seams and pin.
  • Staring where your seams are aligned, pin your waistband along the edge of the waistline and baste together. Seam should run 1 inch from the edge.
  • Finish the edge of the inner waistband with a zig-zag or serge stitch.
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Finishing touches
  • Try on your skirt and mark or pin where you want the hem length.
  • Fold and pin along the edge using your hem marker, and press
  • Open the hem line and fold the salvage edge into the hem line. You may need to trim a little off the end to get a clean, ½ inch hem. Pin closed and press.
Sew your hem closed (I suggest zig-zag stitch for stretchiness). 
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Pair with your favourite t-shirt and flats or dress it up with heels!
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